Is Odia food finally receiving its due

 

The chef, Rachit Kirteeman, prepping the eight-course dinner, which featured dishes such as (left) Enduri Peetha with Kaliya Kasa Fermented Rice and the chicken’s liver fries covered in turmeric leaf (right) (right) Kakharu Phula Puraw, which is a foraged pumpkin flower filled with mud crabs coconut and watermelon seeds, and then fried in rice batter.

 It’s not easy to introduce new flavors to a crowd; however, we’re happy to see someone pushing the limits of food tastings in Kolkata. In addition to the standard food items like rice and condiments, Odisha’s food culture provides a wide array of coastal, tribal, and river-based dishes. To introduce these flavors into the urban setting, Gormei and Glenburn Penthouse collaborated in hosting the chef Rachit Kirteeman. The event, dubbed The Odisha Table, occurred on the 25th of August. Chef Rachit tried to push the guests out of their comfort zones as he served fermented Rice, pumpkin flowers, chutney made of red ant paddy-grown fungi, and many more items to the table throughout the eight-course dinner. Before the tasting, he even included some local ingredients taken from Lake Market, which he had discussed with the chef, Shaun Kenworthy. Chatting to Chef Rachit Kirteeman…

My Kolkata: Welcome to Kolkata. What does it feel like to be in Kolkata to taste today’s food?

ADVERTISEMENTRachit Kirteeman This is the start of The Odisha Table. My life has turned around because I grew up in Kolkata before returning to Odisha when I was seven. It’s the first time an approach to display Odisha food is taking place in India. In the past, Odisha’s cuisine was not considered a grazing or tasting menu; it was always the thali or buffet. This is why we have decided to do something different with Odia food in Kolkata, and witnessing the reaction is awe-inspiring.      

I wanted to preserve the preparation of ingredients and the texture. I wanted to ensure that I kept the surfaces of the dish. However, I sometimes made different dishes with different ingredients. Odia cuisine doesn’t include courses similar to Bengali food, in which there is the first bitter dish and then lighter gravies, the condiments get thinner, and so on. Therefore, I needed to create the experience so that we began to promote particular ingredients or methods throughout every course.

The first course included Macha Ambila, A thin gravy we turned into a soupy starter. The dish is from a particular Cuttack area, making it an indigenous micro-regional word. I was unaware of it until I tasted it at a wedding of a friend’s.

Macha Ambila: The tasting began with Jhola (thin gravy) served in a comfy bowl. The meal included grilled rohu, wild curried cucumber, urad dal fritters, and Jeera chili oil. It also had grains of Rice.

The research led me to highlight Rice, an essential ingredient in the Odia culture. But I wasn’t looking to portray it generically… I wanted my guests to ask questions about me! So, I included rice crackers. I have seen how the people of the village save surplus grain by using rice crackers. Jeera and red chili are also essential ingredients that everyone in an Odia household owns. Sprinkle it over Dal, some curry… It’s like magic powder. Therefore, I added it to the Rice to enhance the flavor.

When it comes to desserts, Rasabali is my absolute favorite. Only two or three places were producing it in Odisha; however, it is now more widely available.

Rasabali: A deep-fried chenna dumpling cooked in reduced milk, served with a salted crumble of ragi. The dumpling was moist and warm and felt soft like pillows in the chew.

Did the idea of removing everyone from their comfort zones create an opportunity for you?

It was. I was still determining what people would accept it. What if people wanted to know what they would eat at Puri or during wedding celebrations? It was a success, and I received good reviews (laughs).

Red Ant Chutneys: The tasting also included two distinct dips made of red Ants. One was spicy, while the other had a more sour flavor, and one had a more gingery taste. Both flavors had a smoky flavor on the tongue.

Do you have any of your possessions back after Kolkata?

I’m drinking going borian (or goona Bori) for sure… We have many bori, but the going bori is delicate, and I love it. I’m enjoying all the delicious food in this area, and I plan to visit every roll shop and kebab shops…