A Recipe Book from Ottolenghi’s Test Kitchen

 

They have worked together on a new cookbook, Ottolenghi Test Kitchen Shelf Love. It features tried and tested recipes that can be modified depending on the ingredients you have on hand. We talk to them about their book idea, the development process, and the best way to reduce food waste in the home.

When did you two start working together?

Noor: Five years ago, I moved from Bahrain to London and started working for Ottolenghi Spitalfields. Yotam came to the deli for the first time for a taste and greeted me warmly. When I joined the test kitchen in 2018, we began working closely together.

What inspired the creation of Ottolenghi’s Test Kitchen: Shelf Love?

Lockdown was the catalyst for the creation of Yotam: Shelf love. We started sharing Instagram recipes that were flexible and did not require many difficult-to-find ingredients. The team in the test kitchen had been dispersed around the globe. The response to our recipes was overwhelmingly positive. It also changed how we prepared and presented them. Our most popular recipes were those that are easy to follow, and you can make magic with simple ingredients. Shelf Love is a website that aims to show people how to navigate around their kitchens and teach them a few kitchen tricks.

What was the process of developing recipes? What challenges did you have to overcome?

Yotam: Our recipe development process in the test kitchen continues to be quite rigorous. Our colleague Claudine, in Wales, will test the recipe in her own kitchen several times. We had to break down more complicated recipes like the za’atar paratas, which required minimal ingredients but a lot of technique. Pictures often speak louder than words. We made sure to include more pictures in these recipes, making the book more lively!

Shelf Love relies on using what you already have. What research was done to adapt the recipes?

Yotam : We often run out of ingredients or need to substitute something. We’ve learned to do this over the years, and we know how to make the right substitutions in recipes.

What surprises did you find as you developed and researched this book?

Yotam says that one of the most positive results of 2020 is the increase in people who cook and eat at home. It meant that people were more willing to try out new food combinations and projects (hello sourdough!) We found that people are most interested in comforting, familiar recipes. This is why we have included them in the book.

Do Middle Eastern dishes lend themselves to a restricted list of ingredients in particular?

Yotam: It depends a lot on the recipe. Toum, an Arabic garlic dip, is one of the most powerful condiments. It only requires three ingredients. With some grilled bread and chicken, it’s a Middle Eastern meal that isn’t too demanding. There are also more complicated dishes like celebration rice, which includes lamb and chicken. Middle Eastern cuisine, like many other cuisines around the world, is as simple or complex as you want it to be, depending on what you choose.

What are the best ways to ensure that ingredients are used efficiently, and waste is minimized?

Noor: The best tip I can give you is to organize your shelves so that the newer purchases are in the back and the older ones at the front. This way, everything you’ll need to use will be in your face when you open the cupboards.

What positives can be taken from the changes in your cooking style over the last year?

Yotam says that it has definitely made us at the test kitchen think of our recipes in a different way. We now see them as a framework we can present to home cooks, allowing for changes and substitutions to be made if necessary. This has led to a more relaxed attitude towards cooking. We don’t worry if someone changes the recipe to meet their own needs. We encourage these changes now more than ever before!

What ingredients should you stock up on to always create delicious dishes without making unnecessary trips to the shop?

Yotam, we would need tahini to be Ottolenghi Test Kitchen. It’s the easiest way to add something creamy, nutty, and delicious to your food. We also encourage you to buy staples you like and have a long shelf-life, such as good-quality jarred tandoori tandoori tandoori in our book. Rice or chickpeas can be used to bulk up any dish. Stock up on your favorite spices like cumin and Aleppo chili to spice up any meal.

Confit Tandoori Chickpeas

Chickpeas are a famous Instagram food for many reasons. First, the simplicity makes this dish very appealing: throw everything in a pan, pop it in the oven, and leave it to itself (and to you). Second, slow cooking the chickpeas without adding liquid to the pan makes them incredibly soft and allows all of the aromatics into the oil. This dish is also easily made in advance and can be served later. It only gets better with time. Replace Greek yogurt with a dairy-free alternative to make a vegan meal. Serve with rice.