“Next time you come back you can handle it even spicier,” our server smiled as he deposited the cash. My husband’s eyes were widening and he breathed loudly as a tear fell down his cheeks, a red-cherry color while indicating that this could not be the case.

Ugly Baby is an acclaimed Thai restaurant located in Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn. The name comes from the Thai belief that evil spirits just want to hurt attractive children and let the ugly ones go. It’s just a few blocks from Other Half, one of the most hip craft breweries in Brooklyn, if not the entire city in New York.

The restaurant is managed by Sirichai Sreparplarn, an acclaimed Bangkok resident who amassed numerous culinary accolades in the States and even ranked #3 on the “Best New American Restaurant 2018” list of Bon Appetit. The restaurant is known for its authentic Thai cuisine from the north and south, which aren’t often found in the or another Thai establishment in Chicago. There aren’t any pad thai or spring rolls in this restaurant. Sreparplan is also unaffected whether you’re not able to stand the heat. He unapologetically prepares his dishes with no changes.

Amid our wait while waiting, we strolled through the area. We spotted the line outside despite the weather being 35 degrees. Lucali is often referred to as the most delicious pizza in New York. Standing in line to get your food in this area of Brooklyn is a sign of respect. Then we returned to Ugly Baby and sat awkwardly on the wall of technicolor painted right in front of the dining patrons. We stared at their plates and sipped, encouraging the diners to calm down with our gazes.

After we sat down an hour after we had put our names on the table at the table, we realized we were in a new territory. The menu only gave me the tiniest of terms of what the menu would consist of and gave me the thrill. We were about to experience an altogether new experience.

We told the server at our table that we are a fan of spicy food. However, my husband can only take moderately spicy food at the very least. In the ten years we’ve been together, he has only recently ended his mild order when presented with the option of adding spices. The server suggested three dishes that offered an array of spices we could look at.

We listened to his suggestions and ordered his suggested dishes; he smiled at us and said, “Are you sure?” before reminding us of how spicy the food could be. I hesitated because I knew I would be delighted but was unsure whether my husband was required to sign the waiver.

Our server then told us they “Waited so long to get in here and now we needed to live in the moment.” The advice of a server could be akin to playing the game of trust. It was like he didn’t intend to get us caught and that we could take advantage of the autumn.

The beer, wine, and cider selections were all esoteric but in a way that was accessible. I was thrilled to see the variety of sweet wines available in bottles. Chilled off-dry wines are the ideal accompaniment to an Asian-inspired dish, slowing the heat.

We also had the northern Thai dish with spare ribs and an uncooked spice mix made of red curry. The meat was deliciously flavorful and fell off the bone. We ate them by hand, quietly making ourselves wash our hands using soap before touching our eyes or faces.

As the night wore on, the wait increased to two hours for people arriving later than us. It’s unlikely to be your experience, however. In response to the pandemic, Ugly Baby now offers reservations delivery, takeout, and reservations.

Ultimately, Ugly Baby lives up to the hype and serves delicious and spiced Thai food. It’s a must! Brooklyn fans of spicy food rejoice! Ugly Baby will put your taste buds on the grill. If you ca not stand the heat, you can always find someone willing to sit down.