Anna Jones on Eating for Our Health and the Planet

Anna Jones, a London-based writer, stylist, and cook focusing on vegetables in her dishes, has gained a reputation for doing so. One Pot, Pan Planet, her latest cookbook, takes this philosophy a step forward by promoting change through eating to create a greener world. Anna’s simple recipes, such as the seasonal Rhubarb & Potato Traybake below, combine new recipes with informed advice about the small changes that we can all do to reduce waste in the kitchen.

Anna talks to us about local, seasonal produce, how to reduce food waste and the relationship between health and sustainability.

When did you first get interested in cooking and eating fresh produce?

Cooking is exciting for me in so many ways. The first thing I found appealing was the instant gratification and the love you receive when you serve a dish. It’s also the ingredients. Citrus oils sprayed on a fresh orange. When you cut into a beetroot, the deep purple color is brilliant. The warm scent of ginger and sugar as they bake into a crumble. Willy Wonka’s magic melting chocolate. This is what I love.

Your previous books have been described as “gentle.” For example, they never specifically criticized meat consumption but instead celebrated vegetables as the main focus of meals. What’s changed?

In my previous books, I have been very gentle when it comes to placing plants in the center of your table. While food, cooking, and sharing a meal are all about joy, connection, and beauty, it is time for me to emphasize the urgent need for change. I want it to be clear that what we eat has the power to change our world. It’s important that those of us who have the privilege to consider these issues take action.

In your new book One Pot, Pan, Planet, you not only provide recipes that are quick, simple, and seasonal but also explore ways to slow down climate change by taking action at home. What was the most important information you wanted to convey to your readers?

It’s easy to feel overwhelmed by the challenges we face in our world today, especially when it comes to sustainability and climate change. I wanted Oneto to offer real, practical advice on how our little actions can make a difference collectively. We don’t require a few perfect sustainability activists. Instead, we need an army of people who make small changes each day. It feels as if there’s a guilt-tainted focus on sustainability. I think that we have a new slate every morning and plenty of opportunities to make changes.

In your new book, you show that sustainability and health go hand-in-hand. Could you briefly explain why this is important?

We can make eating more difficult than it should be. It can be difficult to get to the section of the Venn Diagram where food, sustainability, and health intersect. This is where we all want to be. When it comes to eating, common sense can be more helpful than we realize. I’ve long advocated a diet rich in seasonal fruits and vegetables, nuts, seeds, legumes and pulses, with a healthy sprinkle of treats. A landmark study from Oxford University has proved that this is the healthiest way to eat.

What surprises did you find as you developed and researched this book?

It was a very sobering experience to read the facts about food waste. Even though I already knew them, reading over and over again in my research really made me realize how absurd it is, both from an economic and environmental perspective. According to the WRAP government scheme, in the UK, we waste 30% of the food that we purchase at home. This is a lot of money, food, and resources wasted, especially since far too many people still go hungry. It is also morally wrong to waste food. If food waste worldwide (which includes household, farm, and retail) was a country, it would be third in the world for greenhouse gas emissions (after USA and China).

What has changed in your cooking or eating habits over the years?

My cooking changed dramatically when I went vegetarian. I suddenly had to approach cooking from a different perspective. The rules and building blocks I learned as a young chef were no longer applicable. The challenge of finding new ways to add flavor, texture, and interest to my food meant trying out new ingredients and techniques.

Second shift: when I became a mother. My recipes changed dramatically when I suddenly had less time to cook. They became more nourishing and didn’t require a lot of dishes or ingredients.

We at TOAST strive to reduce our waste through leaner collections and by repurposing surplus materials for future collections. Do you think the collective mentality is changing in this area as well?

Yes, I do think that people are more aware. In one, I have tried to provide practical tips to prolong the life span of foods that are often thrown away in kitchens. The focus of food waste in the media and cookbooks has been on “cheffy” ideas. A recipe to make pesto from beetroot tops is fine, but how many people buy beetroots that have the tops still attached? In one, there are recipes for using up common items that we toss out, such as bread, milk and bagged salad. These are the things that I believe we should focus on if we want to make a real difference.

What is one action that you would encourage everyone to take in their daily life?

My recipes all promote eating mostly plants. This is widely considered to be the best way to reduce our carbon footprint. As many meals as possible should feature plants as the main ingredient.

Which seasonal dishes are you most enjoying right now? What’s your favorite one-pot dish to make at home?

I’ve made One Pot Beetroot Orzo a number of times in the last few weeks. It is a delicious dish that spoons out like pasta risotto but with all the comforting qualities of risotto.